Vietnam wasn't part of some long-pending bucket list. It wasn't even a "must-see-before-we-turn-forty" kind of destination either. What we really needed was a holiday that didn't feel like work. And so with three simple intentions: to rest, to explore gently and to conveniently build our pace around Ayaansh, what followed was a trip that surprised us in the best way possible.
If there's one word I would use to describe our week in Vietnam, it would be calm. If I'm allowed two more: refreshing and fun. This wasn't the kind of trip where we rushed from one attraction to the other. It was the kind where we chose to unwind, eat comfortably, keep Ayaansh entertained, and still have enough breathing room to...well, breathe.
Ninh Binh: A slow beginning wrapped in green
We arrived early morning, red-eyed after a late night flight. Ayaansh? Still dreaming in his beauty sleep, as we drove through the haze of rolling hills, until the world turned green and the limestone peaks showed up.
Our home for the next two nights, Jiva Hoa Lu Retreat, was like this secret garden, nestled between the rice paddies on one side and the limestone karsts guarding us on the other side.
Just as we reached the hotel, Ayaansh woke up, just to find himself surrounded by this array of bookshelves in the reception area, which also doubled as an open library. Ayaansh's love for books knows no bounds, and the staff was more than happy to help him borrow a few books of his liking.
The open walkways, the little water bodies, the lily pads, Ayaansh explored every corner with the joy only a four-year-old can carry. Of course, all of it augmented with a ton of "what's" and "why's!
Trang An: Caves and Calm Waters
A trip to Ninh Binh cannot be complete without experiencing the Trang An boat ride, a site that is part of the UNESCO World Heritage. They offer you to choose among 3 different routes, each with a varied combination of caves and temples, and we chose Route 3, since it seemed to have a good balance of caves, scenery and temple stops.
To be honest, we weren't sure how a three-hour boat ride would go with a four-year-old. But just like every other time, we underestimated him. With Ayaansh seated in the front of the boat, and his toy camera in his hands, he clicked dozens of photos, sometimes so absorbed that we had to remind him to look at the world with his eyes too!
As the boat pushed along, we found ourselves in the middle of these limestone caves, that stood the test of time, and were living testimonies of nature's own mystery. Especially the the longest cave, that was over a kilometer long, it felt like we were floating through time.
The daze in Ayaansh's eyes widened as his voice echoed in the caves. Temple stops, gentle breeze, picture-perfect landscapes, soft splashes of water, and a perfect weather to complement all of this, made it one of those days you wish you could preserve.
Post the boat ride, we strolled through Tam Coc's market streets, found an amazing vegan cafe for lunch, and returned to the resort for a slow evening.
Storybooks. Open spaces. And a happy toddler running freely. Sometimes, that's all a holiday needs.
Ha Long Bay: The Highlight of our trip
We left Ninh Binh around sunrise, with a generous breakfast that the staff packed for us for the road. Ayaansh stayed true to his nature and slept through most of the journey, only to wake up and fill his tummy with the delicious sandwiches, muffins and the juice.
We reached the pier early. At the waiting lounge for the Grand Pioneers Cruise, we had ample time to watch the boats glide in and out of the harbor, giving us a glimpse of what awaited us.
Boarding the super yacht felt like stepping into a luxurious floating resort. Spacious cabins, warm welcomes, and a kids's play room. There are few things that make everyone in a family of three gleam with joy.
Day 1 on the cruise
Post a generous lunch (tailored perfectly to our vegetarian preferences), we headed to visit the Sung Sot Cave, the largest in Halong Bay, in a "tender boat". Little did we know, the term "tender boat" would stick with Ayaansh so much. From that point on, every boat was a "tender boat". Climbing the 50-odd stone steps to enter the cave was a task, and our little adventurer pulled it off in style. As parents, the relief of not having to carry him around was soon superseded by the realization that he's growing up and might need us lesser and lesser as the years pass.
Back on the cruise, evening on the upper deck felt magical. Calm waters, the golden sunset and a cooking demonstration where Ayaansh made his first spring roll!
Day 2 (The Best Day of the trip)
We were moved to a day boat for the full-day excursion and it turned out to be the absolute highlight of the entire vacation.
Kayaking was unforgettable, with Ayaansh happily seated between us, giving us instructions like a little captain. Plunging into the turquoise waters of Lan Ha Bay came across as an unexpected delight for all of us. With a life jacket on him, Ayaansh believed he had mastered the art of ocean swimming. A quick visit to a pearl farm and a sumptuous lunch onboard the day boat, the day never ceased to amaze us.
Day 3: Bamboo boat and Monkeys
Last day on the cruise, our morning started with a bamboo boat ride through low-hanging caves, ducking our heads, laughing, pointing at the limestone formations and spotting monkeys in the hidden lagoon.
A perfect slow ending to an already perfect cruise.
And then, goodbye Ha Long Bay, hello Hanoi!
Hanoi: Slow, Modern, Comforting
Back on the land, we arrived at the L7 West Lake Residences by Lotte which, for a family of three, felt like a gift. Getting upgraded to a two-bedroom serviced apartment meant Ayaansh had more rooms to run, more corners to hide, more space to be himself.
The best part: the building was part of a mall, so our home, our shopping, and our groceries were all under one roof.
Day 1: Lotte World Aquarium
A relaxed, easy day. We explored the aquarium, spotted sharks, sting rays and fishes calmly swimming around in glass tunnels. Quick, fun and light, just what we wanted for the first day
Day 2: KidZania Magic
This was the day Ayaansh had been waiting for. His first ever KidZania experience. Because why not let a four-year-old become a firefighter, a doctor, a pilot, a chef, a police officer, a cashier and a delivery boy all in the same day? He ran from one activity to the other, beaming with pride every time he earned his "KidZos".
Day 3: A day of culture
On our third day in Hanoi, we explored the quieter, cultural side of the city, wandering around in the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, One Pillar Pagoda and the Temple of Literature. Ayaansh flowed along, sometimes curious, sometimes distracted, just as a toddler would. But the moment we entered the i-Museum, everything changed. Lights, colors, immersive art, and an overjoyed toddler who had found a new source of energy within himself!
Evening followed in quickly, and the Water Puppet Show was a perfect end to the day. Thanks to the English audio guide, we could appreciate the folklore, and Ayaansh sat wide-eyed, absorbing the magic of the wood puppets.
Day 4: A rainy goodbye
On our last day, a rainy Hanoi called for a slow goodbye. It meant more time at the mall, souvenir hunting, and one final Vietnamese Coffee before heading back to the airport.
What we learned (Yet Again)
Vietnam surprised us, not with grand gestures, but with gentle moments. Slow mornings, warm people, strong coffee, kind spaces, and experiences that felt as calm and yet as memorable. For us, this trip wasn't about seeing everything. It was about being together, letting Ayaansh discover the world at his pace, and for us to rediscover it through him.
For Vrunda and me, that is all traveling with Ayaansh is all about.
From here and beyond...
